Like above, around 50 bucks, easy to replace. I just did this past November and got the element from Dey's Appliance Store on Airpark Blvd as well.

I'm with the others, I think it'd be pretty easy to replace.  Or is the new element different than the original?  The diagram you posted says you're replacing a plug-in element (easy) with a hard-wired element (a little harder).  Even so there's probably ample instructions on the internet somewhere.  It really is a wonderful thing.  I managed to replace a t-stat on my dryer.  Something I never would have attempted if not for the step-by-step instructions I found on an appliance forum.  Good luck!

I replaced ours successfully, and I'm pretty much an idiot.  

The one thing I'd note is that at least one how-to website I consulted in advance mentioned that it was wise to make sure that the wires that the element plugs into didn't fall through the back of the oven when you unplug it.  I think I used some pliers to make sure that didn't happen--piece of cake.

This is a heartening thread.

I agree on applianceaid.com. In one month last summer I used it to order parts and fixed the washing machine and the Swedish dishwasher, saving us gobs of cash and earning massive spousal credit units. I used those up last Homegrown, so I wish something else would break that is dramatic and easy to fix, before May.

I have a set of square bits to loosen that, looks fairly standard. Have you web searched for the element by model number make of the oven?

When you do unbolt the element, be aware that there are a couple of wires attached -- most likely some ind of spade connector. Grab the wire with something like a hemostat so that when you disconnect the wire from the element that the wire doesn't slip into the hole. If it does, the oven will need to be pulled away from the wall so you can take the back off.

This seems like something that has potential as a web video.  Anyone there to document your foray into appliance repair?

An odd set of square drivers makes a nice gift, too.

That close up of your oven certainly looks like a regular square drive.  Is it just stuck in there really good from years in place?  Well if it doesn't work, maybe she'll still admire the effort and make you some Hot Pockets in the microwave.  

Sorry for the double post (I think) my Blackberry told me that my post was unsuccessful.  Not sure why my phone and this site don't get along.  Hopefully it will be a moot point when I switch to an iPhone in a week or so.

FWIW

Seconds Dey Appliance - the people there are good, and can often can tell you how to replace the part as well. I've even just brought the old/dead part in and they knew what I needed (w/no model info).

Another bit on the Model Number, on several ovens I've owned, the model info can be found inside of the oven door (on the oven, not the door) upper right corner on a little metal tag or kind of stamped/engraved in.

You may want to try that liquid silicone lubricant (comes in pen-type for pinpoint application) or Liquid Wrench - supposed to be non-flammable vs WD-40. Works a charm on stuck stuff.

I agree with ruby2sd4y. WD-40 is essentially worthless. Does nothing.

WD-40, when applied properly works magnificently, but yeah, it's flammable, but it should work to free a seized bolt or coupling ... when (if?) you do get it taken down, use some neverseize, and you won't have that problem again. 

Two: give the square driver a whack or two with a hammer while it's in the bolt. That might also knock it free.

Dude, seriously just call me next time.

Three: if and when you get the thing switched out, for pete's sake, hose down all the couplings and connections with Formula 409 and watch for bubblies.

Nevermind. It's electric.

Meh.

8th grade science class day @ Paul's house (only with booze)...lol

Go the Homer/Bevis & Butthead explosions FTW!

DOH!

Oh, the water heater is fun. The one I replaced is still downstairs. If I had the gear, I'd chop it lengthwise and weld H frames out of 2" round stock and make planter boxes.

Whoever installed the one I replaced ... whenever it was ... did it DIY, and that DI should definitely not have been Y. More like DI Why the hell didn't you hire someone else to do the job? required no fewer than 6 trips to the hardware store. flex>PVC>Brass>Galvanized>PVC, or something to that effect. 

Fun. Not.

And re: my earlier post, if you're dealin with gas: soap those joints and fittings and make sure you get the vent right. Easiest way to do that (according to Gary Best, of Best Home Inspections) is to light a match and blow it out, holding the smolder below the vent on top of the heater. If the smoke gets drawn into the vent and up, then the vent and ducting is adequate to handle the co2 from the heater.

Six days to replace the lower element in an electric oven has got to be some kind of record.

I'm glad to hear that my selection of lubricant did the trick for you. All those others are fine fine options so I won't poo poo them as lubricant choices. And for safety reasons, all wise directions to go, I especially like PB blaster for seized motorcycle parts. Paul, can you now infer the stove make & model by the element required?